Frequently asked Questions
This is more of a personal preference rather than a set in stone range. We recommend 15-20 psi if on pavement and 10-15 psi if off-road and 8-10 psi if you are in very soft conditions like snow or sand. Which tire pressure works best for you also depends on rider weight and if you are pulling a trailer. These ranges are just general guidelines. Disclaimer: Our bikes have tubes in the wheels and the lower the air pressure you run the more susceptible you are to getting flats due to the tube pinching.
The top speed of all of our R750 and R750XP bikes is governed at 19mph and may or may not be able to reach that speed depending on rider weight including any cargo. The top speed of our R1000XP varies as well on rider weight and cargo, but tops out between 26 and 30mph.
Yes, this clicking is due to the multiple clutches in the hub that engage the different gears. The only way for it to be completely silent is when the bike is under a load in first gear. Otherwise, there is no way to get rid of the clicking.
When the order was placed if you gave us an email address you should have received an order confirmation. Once the item is fulfilled in our warehouse you will receive another email with tracking/shipping information of your order. Once you have that tracking number you can track the order through the shipper to see an expected delivery date.
If your bike is equipped with walk assist mode, Press and hold the “-” button on the handle bar control until “P” appears on the screen. The bike will begin to assist you 2-3mph and will stop assisting when you remove pressure from the “-” button
Most commonly this is caused when the silver magnet attached to a spoke on the rear wheel is no longer aligned with the sensor that is attached to the frame. There are two types of sensors: Bolt-on or Zip-tied.
- Bolt-on- For the magnet to be in the correct position on the bolt-on style, the magnet needs to pass by the center of the Bafang logo on the sensor.
- Zip-tied- For the magnet to be in the correct position on the zip-tie mount style, the magnet needs to pass by the center of the sensor body where there is a raised circle.
If the magnet is in the correct position and you are still getting the error code, the next thing to check is that the sensor cable is still plugged in between the rear wheel and motor. When doing this also check to see if there is any damage to the cable. If the plug is still firmly attached and the cable appears to be in good condition then something has become faulty in the sensor and the only remedy is by contacting Rambo for a replacement.
I have the 3 speed hub and my wheel no longer turns when I pedal or use the throttle, but the chain moves like it should.
This is generally caused by too much force being put on to the rear chain gear(sprocket) on the rear wheel. This sprocket engages the hub with 3 splines that have likely sheared off. Your bike will need a replacement sprocket. (RP-14-03-01)
I have the 3 speed hub and I have received and installed the warranty chain and sprocket, and now I am getting error 21 and/or my rear brake won't adjust or engage properly.
For the error 21, have the customer align the magnet on the rear wheel with the sensor on the left side of the frame. Make sure magnetic side is facing the sensor. For the issue of the brake no longer being aligned, this is caused by the chain not being sized to the bike. The warranty chain that is sent out is a universal size and is one link too long. One link must be removed from the chain before install for it to properly fit on the bike. Once one link is removed the wheel will sit in a similar position to how it originally was and the brake should only need minor adjustment if any.
This is generally caused by improper gear adjustment. Put the bike in third gear and tighten up the tension of the shifter so it is taut. To know if it is adjusted correctly, first gear should not click as you are pedaling. If a visual is needed, refer them to the Rambo Video titled “Rear Wheel Removal” If this does not work, the Sheldon Brown website has another way of adjusting the shifting that tends to be a little more exact, but tedious. Here is the link: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_tech.html
External Gears: Bikes that have a standard external gearing system should not click unless you are coasting and not pedaling.
Internal Gear Hubs: It is normal for internal geared hubs to click even when pedaling forward. This is because unlike external gears where there is only one clutch system with spring loaded pawls, (The things that make the clicking noise), there is a separate clutch for each internal gear. For example if you are in second gear and pedaling, your first and third gear are not engaged and therefor their pawls will be clicking.
One added piece of info: The hub may be silent when pedaling forward for the first couple miles or the first one hundred miles. This is caused by excess grease getting in to the clutch system during the manufacturing process. It is NOT recommended to take the hub apart.
Some of the forks on our bikes come with a guide that is stuck onto one of the legs of the fork. If your bike doesn’t have a sticker there are two ways you can set the air pressure. It all comes down to personal preference, but also making sure you don’t bottom out the shock if you hit a bike hole, rut, etc.
- The first way is setting the pressure of the fork to 100psi and riding to essentially guess and check to see if that pressure works for you. If it is too stiff or too loose for your preference add or remove air at 5psi increments until you reach the desired softness or firmness.
- The second way is by using the band that is wrapped around the post that goes into the lower part of the fork as a guide, (you can use a zip-tie around that post instead if your fork didn’t have a rubber ring or it fell off).
Using something to lean on or a friend to hold up the bike, get on the bike and get into an “attack” position. This is done by standing up on the pedals and having your hands on the bars. Bounce up and down a few times to get the fork into resting position. After bouncing slide the rubber ring or zip-tie down to where the post feeds into the lower part of the fork. Gently get off the bike to try not to move the ring. When off the bike check to see if resting position is when 20-30% of your fork’s travel is used. If so you have the correct pressure. If not, add more air if resting position is 30% or more of your travel, or remove air if resting position is 20% or less of your fork’s travel. A general rule of thumb is to adjust by increments of 5-10 psi since it doesn’t take much to get into a good position.
Long story short, mid-drive motors provide more torque, which is what will help you get up hills and through the woods better. Hub drives are good for people that are using the bike as a form of transportation such as commuting on pavement or hard packed trails. Off-road is where the mid-drive motors excel, especially when paired with the power that Bafang offers that other competing mid-drives do not. That is why our moto is “takes you places you’ve never been!”
Both R750 and R750XP models are considered class 2 E-Bikes while the R1000XP is considered a class 3.
A pedal assist range varies on many factors, the biggest ones are: rider weight, how technical or hilly the terrain is, what assist level you are on, and how much you are pedaling along with the assist. The effective pedal assist range after weighing in these factors is estimated somewhere around 10-30+ miles. 10 being high assist and/or hilly terrain, and 30+ being low assist level on relatively flat ground.
The batteries generally take 4-5 hours to charge when empty.
The charger will spark when it is being plugged into the battery if it is not plugged into the wall outlet. When it is plugged into a wall outlet the charger is grounded and will prevent the spark.
No, there is no current technology to allow you to recharge that big of a battery through pedalling. You wouldn’t be able to generate enough power for it to recharge efficiently.
This usually happens around early spring and fall. To figure out what happened you need to ask some questions. “When was the last time you used the bike?” If they say a few months ago, the battery was probably stored at a low charge and went into a “safety mode.” They will either need a replacement battery or try a jumpstart method. You can also recommend FTH Power which is a lithium ion battery refurbishing company in CA. If they say it was working fine the other day then have them test the charger with a voltmeter to make sure it is not the charger.
What is a BRAKE BURN IN PROCEDURE?
It is important that you follow this brake burn in procedure prior to using your new Rambo bike, or whenever you replace your brakes, rotors or pads.
- Any time that a rotor is replaced, the pads should be replaced as well. This way when you are burning in a rotor you are burnishing the pads at the same time
- Burning in a rotor refers to transferring a little of the pad compound onto the surface of the rotor. This helps the pad grip the rotor.
- Burnishing the pads refers to polishing the surface of the pads so that they have greater grip on the rotor.
- It takes about 20 stops on each brake for the ‘burn in’ to take place. It is important to do this in a controlled and clean environment, and that you do the same for both front and rear brakes, but you must do them separately. Do not burn in front and rear brakes at the same time.
- Preferably on pavement, get the bike up to a good speed and then firmly and evenly apply the brakes until the bike comes to almost a complete stop. Repeat this process 20 times.
- If the bike is ridden hard or for very long before the ‘burn in’ process is completed, there is a chance the rotor can be damaged. Indications that this may have happened are excessive noise and lack of power.
- If done correctly you will enjoy many trouble-free hours of good brake performance with no squealing or squeaking of the brakes.